Jamnagar is another Gujarat delight, a fabulous, little-visited city, overflowing with ornate, decaying buildings and colourful bazaars displaying the town’s famous, brilliant-coloured bandhani – produced through a laborious 5000-year-old process involving thousands of tiny knots in a piece of folded fabric. It’s an ideal base for exploring the surrounding coastline that stretches to Dwarka, where rare birds flock to ankle-deep islands, and fine beaches are empty all year-round.
Jamnagar is best known for having India’s only Ayurvedic university, where you can learn the techniques of ancient medicine and yoga, and a temple that’s hosted nonstop chanting since 1964 (it’s in the Guinness Book of Records; see opposite).
Prior to Independence, the town was ruled by the Jadeja Rajputs. It’s built around appealing Ranmal Lake, which has a small palace at its centre, and huge weekend crowds around its edge.